I Orrignially tried just splicing it in but found it would lock and then ground itself out and not unlock. With the 241 swap, the pushbuttons do not function. We have detected that you are blocking our advertisers. Ive been having this strange noise ever since I lifted the truck and didnt know what its coming from. I assumed it was the front hub because I changed at at the same time as the lift went on.
This will allow us to continue providing quality Cummins diesel information to everyone for free! Well, now its making a chain type noise and I knew right where to look. Clutch pack looks brand new. These kits are designed to be top of the line professional overhaul kits. Next you will see the roller bearing in the cover. I though dragging brakes because you could feel a drag on the truck until it quit. Replace the plastic fork guides with new ones from the kit. There is no leaking coming from the front seals, rear sears or oil pan.
Install the new output snout seal. Rear and front seals I think are the leaks. If you are installing your transmission that was purchased from Monster Transmission, our sales and support staff is here. Reinstall the new needle bearing, with lube and ensure it is straight. Sometimes we can supply good used take out parts to save you money. Clean, remove and replace the shaft seal, item 42 from above blow out, and set aside.
Thanks for watching my videos. Shift Better, Last Longer When it comes to transmissions, no other company provides this level of commitment to their clients. I promise you that the next transmission I have to replace or any other person I hear of needing a transmission I will be heavily promoting Monster Transmission and tell them that I personally use Monster Transmission. Remove the rear snap ring, pointed out by the arrow, then remove the bearing. I've yet to verify this works, as right now I don't have a front drive shaft, nor the whole cut in the floor for the shifter.
Next remove the snap ring that is behind the bearing. You need to install this part before the oil pump causes your transfer case to fail. Source of the plastic crap. Here is the inside of the case with the oil pump on the main shaft. Once the snout is removed you can see the rear main bearing, it is held in place by 2 snap rings. Open the snap ring, then when it is fully expanded wiggle the snout cover off of the rear main bearing. With the oil pump removed you will notice the chain is held in place by a snap ring holding the sprocket in place.
Anyone have a service manual or anything? A Transfer case illustration is provided to assist you in part identification and the assembly sequence. Thank you, for understanding and whitelisting Mopar1973Man. To engage the front axle, you could either use a posi-lok. The pump rub issue was not my leak. Most likely I'll be writing up a tech article on how to do it once I get finish it up.
This electric shift unit was predominantly used alongside of 4L60E, 4L80E transmissions. Ground one, then run the third to the front actuator. My acuator had 4 wires. You could see that it was begining to drill, but had not worn through yet. Install the oil pump and pickup on the shaft and in the case cover and get ready to put the case back together. You should now have an empty case, you can see the input bearing in the case reinstalled.
We provide Free Technical support call 1-800-444-0755. . Reassembly the planetary gear with the new shims in reverse order. The rear shaft on the T-case is fine but I can wiggle the front shaft pretty good and when I do, you can hear a lot of movement inside the case. You should replace both of these rings as they often get damaged. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the tail shaft snout on.
I used a hammer and 2 x 4 cut to size to get it installed. Second, magnet is full, pump filter clogged like mad and crap all over the case. The sale price won't last long so be sure to pick one up while this price lasts. Just cause it was run dry or is there something else I should look at? Take you time and ensure you get it installed flush and not cockeyed. Reinstall the range select shift fork, ensure you replace the plastic guides with new ones. Then started looking everything over. Wiggle the fork out of position, use the rooster comb position to aid in giving you remove to remove the fork.
I don't recommend doing that but it worked for me. A cross reference table is provided below to assist you in identification of your. Red is the needle bearing Here is the needle bearing removed. Once that is done, set the cover aside for reassembly. Once the cover is removed you will see the main input bearing and the snap ring that holds the planetary gears in place.