I live in a state that doesn't check emissions for inspection. Plug one vacuum port with finger and blow into the remaining vacuum port. I'm interested in giving this a try to see what results of it. Mario Daily Driver: 1995 Trooper Limited, Auto, 3. A tube in the plate is exposed to the exhaust gases and pressure. The high exhaust pressure still blocks the air bleed, but the valve is non-operational.
No stalling or hesitation at all. How is oil pressure related to this? So I went back to using the back pressure transducer. That determines how far the valve opens. From your discription I am sure that the hole is too big. No check light and good mpg. Remember there is no operation at wide open throttle, due to the low vacuum from the engine.
Hack - Isn't it pretty? But anyone who has a few parts laying around should have a hand full. I'm putting the straight bypass piece back in. It can be cleaned easily and thoroughly by removing the exhaust manifold. You've just made an orifice that replaces the Back Pressure Transducer. Where can I get a transducer.
You will have good driveability and your engine will run about 15 degrees cooler at the guage. Besides, I left the transducer in place and just ran a loop of vacuum tubing from one of the nozzles to the back of the engine to the other nozzle. Body and rotted frame sent to the crusher. I assumed that was to lessen the likelyhood of a leak from rubbing the battery. If you loose vacuum you loose economy. I changed the filter on top it was really old and brown and replaced it with the material used for fish tank water filters.
It doesn't always explain things as well as I'd like but it gets you most of the way there. I took the small metal tube out and cleaned it but it seems that there is still some blockage at the manifold side. I am just like that, I want to get everything connected up and installed like the book says. I will kepp ya'll posted on results so hopefully it may help others. I guess my biggest fear was the catalytic converter starting to clog up. The tube in the plate is exposed to the exhaust gases and pressure flows through the tube to the valve.
Purecourage wrote:I only cleaned the unit itself and the two passages openings tot he engine. When I did the gas that spilled out of the old one was not clean at all, kinda like a rust color. My Troop seems to run better with the bypass. I contacted Aftermarket4x4, Sean, but he didn't have any and suggested Trail Tough or Hawk which I will. Please edit your profile signature so it includes year, engine size and transmission type. I may replace it and see if it makes a difference.
The bottom side is usually worse than the side bolting to the head, but both seem to work loose over time. . Seems I have to pump the pedl a few times first. I cannot find one aat the auto parts stores? The thermal vacuum switch is closed on a cold car and opens up when the engine reaches operating temperature. It was like this when I bought it. My Trooper doesn't start with one tunr of the key.
Also, two of the vacuum lines I replaced connected to hard vacuum lines, with rubber lines on the other end, running beside the battery. We had a warm day 80's and not a cloud in the sky. But, you did say that the back pressure part stops working in older Troopers so it could be better to use this modification? Do you go off road? Rough idle, hard start when warm. I also noticed some white exhaust discoloration around the manifold near the last cylider on the head, so I need to tighten that up as well. Not hard to do and may uncover some vac issues not easily spotted just looking at engine. This may be the whole problem, but I am interested in that bypass.