January 5, 2010 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the input on this one. I'd probably just disconnect the 6 bolts that hold the halfshaft to the diff flange and then remove it so it's out of the way for easy access to the 4 E14's. Most auto parts stores have them as loan-a-tools. Good that you got some wreching experience. I have not had to do one of these yet, but it looks like you would bolt on the bearing, put the shaft through the bearing, then push the hub in far enough to get the nut on, then draw the hub through the bearing using the nut. Now I have the new sealed bearing and I am torn regarding installation. What's at the rear and does it need changing? Why not just specify a straight 60Nm instead of 30Nm with a twist unless there is something that moves during the final tightening.
I've got one helluva rattle from the front passenger side that's getting worse though, so I'm gonna be doing this as part of a suspension overhaul, so a week here or there won't hurt :D. Different makes and models of vehicle will require different techniques for the rear wheel bearing replacement. Note that the Old Inner Race is used again. How did the speed sensor bolt broke? This wobble extension is the key because of the tight space. I've bought a few used parts out of the south over the years and find it amazing how fresh they look compared to Ontario parts. From the first click to practically undriveable was about 100 miles. I know when I did my front bearings, the 528 sport version was a little different than non-sports.
They are unknown Made In China bearings. Re-install the plastic plugs over the bolts on the rear of the caliper. Thanks for all the informative posts, you've helped many and guided many in the right direction. Because this won't be a walk in the park when you work on a car that has corrosion. Now look inside, you should see the drive axle retaining nut. I have a problem with my speedo as well, the counter numbers change but the speed needle dont move around the gauge to show the speed of the car. The drivers side went so much faster as I was more comfortable with all the steps and had I not run out of daylight, this would have been a one day project.
Typically, I see that only when a crush washer or something is involved like a spark plug. The problem is with clearance, once you have done this job, you will know what I mean. There are no part nos: for these two bushes. Then I used blue paint to paint the Nut and the Hub at 12 o'clock position. Are you starting to hear a grinding, wobbling noise coming from your rear wheels? And guess what, people all along miss the key instruction: turn another 90 degrees after 30 Nm! Nothing worse than installing it wrong, because you will ruin an otherwise brand new bearing. I just opened this thread and the 2 pictures display for me. You don't need to force it.
I used a length of threaded rod that was part of a set of spring compressors. You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. Use a piece of rope or stiff wire to hang the drive axles to the car and keep them from crashing downward. Continue Shopping Proceed to Checkout. Only thing he says in that diy to loosen before removing the axle nut is the wheel lugs. I think potholes and bumps put more pressure on the race than one or two taps with a piece of wood and hammer.
You've at least convinced me of the way to proceed, although it was not where I wanted to go. Takes about 20 to 30 blows. We have to do this on the ground, as the amount of torque we put on this nut is enough to possibly knock the car off the jack stands. You will see two rubber grommets with a plastic plug installed in them. Before pushing driveshaft back into hub I made very sure that all splines were very clean - used wire brush on drill to clean all traces of dirt and bits of rust. Your suggestion would not work. In my case I went to change one wheel bearing but noticed roughness in the other one which prompted me to change both.
For installation use the 36mm socket and a rubber mallet to push the new hub back on. The service manager didn't even ask what was wrong. Right rear wheel bearing failure at 30k miles. Because I seem to be finding answers for both that they are normal. I have no idea whether the image will be useful or not. Finally finished my car about 2 weeks ago!! Please join the Roadfly Facebook Group where members will be more than happy to answer your questions and provide help.
Yep, I think as long as you can tap the hub in just a few mm to catch the thread, it should work. Bimmerfest member mmm635 says 30 Nm for these E14 bolts, but it is way too low for M10x1 bolts! If you neglect this further, then the noise will be more pronounced later. You can install the hub into the bearing using all thread, washers and nuts. Thank you for the great write up. This tool does not allowthe hub to push out the inner race. Somewhere in time I did acquire a bargain bearing for the rear and all I know is that although it looks identical to the one for the rear-rotor model, it is a different part number.