This would also result in a very cold interior. Honestly, don't know if your control head has a built in recal feature, but a cheap way to find out. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode. I don't know why the factory overlooked this? With the key on, remove the vacuum line from the pump and it should run. Everything worked fine until the autostart run the battery dead and the poor truck sat with a dead battery while we were away for three weeks.
I pulled the knob off the face, and the stem is turning and free, so from the front it appears to be working. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. Anyone have experience or suggestions of problem areas to check first? This valve is what keeps the hot water from flowing through the radiator. Second remove the rocker arms on each side of the injectors removing the two bolts holding each rocker arm also remove the push rods. Where exactly is it located and how to change? Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water.
If your stuck in the vent mode there may be a broken line at the climate control panel, a broken line to an actuator or a bad actuator. I agree with the above. There is a small diameter black plastic tube from the engine compartment that feeds the climate controls. With it you can do most any repair yourself. It is cheaper that way. I'm sure someone else will be by soon to help ya out. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again.
I believe it's in the switching unit, can these be repaired? To sum it up, it is a vacuum problem. Do I have a bad switch and or a vacuum issue here? So my vents stopped actuating to different positions in my 2011 6. After doing that, use a brass punch to prevent sparks and unscrew the ring holding the pump in place. I was wondering if this was a defect, and others had this problem?. . This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority.
I discovered today that I only receive air through the defrost vents. Should I get a vacuum tester and see if it is just a leak in the line? I took the automobile to courtesy Ford in poulsbo, washington. Disconnect the condenser to evaporator line spring lock coupling. It may be a little different for your application but it gives you a general idea on what you are doing or looking for. I know I dont have the locking hubs working anymore, I have to manually turn them to get in 4x4 which isnt a problem, Id rather do that since I know it is in 4x4 mode.
All the lights work in the switches, and the temp control works, but no matter what I push, defrost or floor, it stay in the vent only. Like the title says; I have a 2001 F350 with No blower Motor and Just Defrost, it is actually a friends, he is building a fence, and I am looking into the truck problem. It's a 2005 f350 lariat. I pulled the knob off the face, and the stem is turning and free, so from the front it appears to be working. Remove the 11 screws… first you will need to remove all the screws in your door pull-armrest and there may be one by the inside door handle look all around the edges of the door panel for screws especially at the bottom of your dood. Ford paid for the first repair under factory warranty. It does microswitch off the pump when connected.
Most of the time there is a reason this motoe fail. As far as the blower motor, I am thinking switch or motor, fuse has been checked? Through the graciousness of this board the master book is on it's way. To fix this, locate the check valve and replace it. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I am not an professional automotive technician, so this answer will have to suffice until improved by a professional. The motor is splined to the shaft , this is what usually gives trouble.
The hubs are engaged with a short 6 second burst of vacuum and then the valve shuts off. I will say the vacuum pump stays on longer than normal when the ignition is first activated. Driver can not defrost windshield with cold air conditioned defrost. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Check to see if it is working by applying a vacuum from a good source, or get one of those brake bleeder vacuum pumps, and pump some vacuum to see if the switching valve is operating normally. You can get any tech info from Ford but better and easier would be just to go and get a Haynes manual from your local auto parts. Through the graciousness of this board the master book is on it's way.