We have a persistent rumbling rattle in the right rear of the vehicle. During cold days, it will not make noise until the vehicle has been driven for a few minutes. Also, it only occurs when I am accelerating. Funny, I drive the 'vette more in the winter. On a long road trip that can get pretty irritating. Will it be safe for the trip? Those bolts that take a 10 mm wrench are actually 6 mm.
No worries, Autozone had it in Duralast, a brand I can easily endorse! It sway from side to side while I'm driving. Best, Bluemill My son is getting married next weekend- so I won't be allowed to do any car play! But now after about a month, it's even worse. From what I have been told by several Nissan mechanics, the rear upper and lower control arm bushings are bad and deteriorate prematurely, causing the dangerous wobble in the truck. Also, I notice the noise more when the outdoor temperature is warmer. If I let my foot off the gas, the noise immediately disappears until I press down again on the accelerator.
One thread said there was a parking brake cable inside the drum, Hitting the backing plate, on the inside. The flaps have rusted to the point of no support, to hold the brake line from rapping and hitting the side of the axle in a good jolt situation. The approximate failure mileage was 138,000. Tall tale signs of ring gear or pinion gear wear. This week I replaced the rear 2 sections of the exhaust, which were shot at 103,000 miles. Remove the drive shaft from the diff pinion flange.
The filiment could be thumping around inside?? Not a good example of Nissan quality. The dealership repaired it because it fell within the 30-day warranty period. What are you using to lube the bolts? It worked for about two months after that and then I got an error message one day when I tried to load a cd and it hasn't worked since. For additional How-to Tutorials visit our website:. This video explains how to replace the rear Axle Seal and Wheel Seal Grease Seal.
If you have it rebuilt overhaul time is around 7. The right side was really worn, but when you hit it with a mallet it hardly moved at all, but the bouncing axle for over 100,000 miles had taken its toll. It doesn't have to be fast or slow. You would need bearings and other misc parts typical of a diff overhaul. I have read multiple posts to this website as well as others regarding both of these issues in the 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. How about the carbon canister? The failure occurred while driving 50 mph or greater.
The vehicle was maneuvered to the side of the road. My first attempt to repair was replacing the shocks, and that wasn't it. The most complicated task I've performed is replacing the timing belt on my wife's 91 accord and full suspension replacement on a couple of cars. You only need to pull them out enough to allow the diff to slide out. So use a floor jack to support the diff as you work it of the studs.
Very poor design which will end up causing serious accidents or injuries. However it would likely be more cost effective to just replace the drop out diff. Some of the symptoms are excessive play in the rear axle especially during moderate acceleration or deceleration. So far, I didn't see any death or accident reported because of this but I'm sure it's bound to happen. Sliding the axles out of the tubes removes the axle splines from the diff in the center.
Anyway, I actually have not done anything to the rear differential besides changing the fluid 2-3 times since owning it in late 2005. I think this is a design problem or parts problem and should be recall. Slathering the splines with marine waterproof grease is the fix. Thanks for the evaluation, Nistech. Thank you for your help! We're planning on driving the Pathfinder. I got at Advance Auto, an east coast chain that's like Autozone, but with more product that's made by other folks, not the Duralast stuff, which actually is pretty good, for the most part. I really cant give you a time frame.
Not much improvement, then the ball joint. Below and above that range the noise is absent or almost absent. And we have put nearly 80K miles on it since owning it; we're at 185,000 and still going. I'll look at it later. If it is, you guys will know about it. Not a constant growl or squeek, or more noise if you turn on that side, etc. I have done a lot of adjusting, 3-4 times this past month to nail it down.
Now, through internet, learn this is a very common problem in this model, requires replacement of bushings and is known to the manufacturer who has taken no action. I know my car is old but quite a few have the same issue before they hit 100K miles. Several mechanics could not diagnose problem so it has continued to get worse over past 2 years. I was certain that would fix it, for the noise really sounds like it's coming from about where the main muffler is. The contact owns a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. Same vehicle engine light does not turn have replaced all kinds of sensors and still light does not turn off.