We welcome anyone else's experience and opinions on this or similar jobs. The distributor cap is installed with the marked 1 position facing to the rear and slightly towards the drivers side. We pounded it in and eased out those bad boys with hardly any trouble. Then we had to drain the remaining coolant that would interfere with the intake manifold removal. We had to drill out the broken bolts both at the front of the manifold. Have clean water handy for rinsing. One was broken, causing the coolant leak.
The Ford dealer didn't have replacement bolts, neither did an engine rebuilder. And no, the manual never mentioned this. It's more small block than big block, but a lot of guys refer to it as a medium block. We marked the hood brackets with a felt pen, then removed the hood. We will do a complete flush and replenish once the manifold is clear of any leaks. Also, 351W valve covers are flat and have a rectangular profile, while 351C and 351M usually have a trapezoidal profile. We chose to simply because of the work it took to do the whole job.
A covered work area in case the job lasts more than one day. Young people willing to stand in the engine compartment and lift is a very handy way around using a hoist. What we used: A vehicle manual. Do the same for the lower manifold. These are referred to as 351W, 351C, and 351M, respectively. Put the hinge bolts back into the hood and set the hood down somewhere safe.
And there you have it. Cover with plastic to protect from rain, dust. Hex key for block engine coolant drain. When you do the final torque, they will tighten just fine. .
When that hex bolt comes out. In hindsight, we needed a: Face shield and rubber gloves for the engine coolant draining procedure. We took pictures with a digital camera. Ours is published by Haynes. After the reinstall: Pried the cut bracket loops back around the new manifold bolt, screwed down the nut and they are holding just fine. Plastic garbage bags to protect exposed engine. Amazing amounts of dust and mouse poop on the manifold.
The problem we discovered, was four of the manifold bolts, two front and two back, were corroded. Hack saw or cutting wheel to cut the ready rod. Advice for the inexperienced: Get a clip board and pencil and lots of paper. The 351C was offered in both 2 barrel and 4 barrel versions. Genius Son used a standard slot screw driver pounded into the Torx bolt head.
Probably the same place that the pcv valve is located on my 1990 Lincoln town car with 302V8 and fuel injection Rear middle of lower intake manifold. Thread the new studs in finger tight, with the washer and nut following closely. I just call them Mutants. The other broke as I was loosening it. We removed the hex head bolt from the driver's side of the engine block. The 351W looks just like a 302, only it's a couple inches wider.
He also chewed open one of the wires to 7 injector. Hood went back together fine, except I kept dropping the bolts into the engine compartment. F 350, 351Windsor V8 manifold gasket: This isn't necessarily in sequence, but the highlights of this job as we did it are all here. It seemed the best thing to do. Remember: keep wrenches and hammers away from the fragile injectors. Follow the gasket installation instructions, which call for carefully cleaning all mating surfaces.
The Cleveland, although it's quite wide, is still very much a small block. Eight indicates 351C or 351M, Six indicates 351W. Two or three pressurized cans of brake cleaning solution. We weren't able to get stainless steel studs for our manifold job, but we felt darned lucky we were able to get anything. We decided not to go there. Final torquing of the lower manifold bolts took three basic passes, following the pattern given in the manual.
. My thanks to Manifold Monkey for providing a good set of instructions that helped me do a repair that initially I was afraid to tackle. I'll admit I'm too lazy to post the actual answer, however I'm looking it up now. . Brake cleaning spray kept manifolds clean. Pretty well had to for this job. We want to be sure the engine is free of coolant contaminated oil.